Recently, this column has examined phenomena well beyond our immediate surroundings.  This week, we boldly journey into the jungle of fine dining in our neighborhood and examine the often-overlooked culinary gem that is Baja Fresh Mexican Grill.

Ostensibly authentic Mexican dining?  Here, in the heart of Foggy Bottom?  Audacious and far-fetched though the prospect may seem, it is true, and a short excursion to the corner of 20th and I Streets will prove it.  Baja Fresh lies nestled next to an Indian restaurant, opposite a Bank of America to the west and directly across that liquor store/flower shop/palm reading cluster to the south.

Entering Baja Fresh, one is immediately struck by the mariachi-techno music.  The walls are painted in a stark, institutional white, and complemented by startlingly bright lighting.  Conveniently, the line for the cash register begins immediately inside the door, with an enlarged copy of the menu helpfully hanging behind the counter.  As one stands in line, one will gradually become aware of a subtle, piercing noise that sounds like an alarm of some sort.  Careful observation reveals, however, that this is merely the whirring of the overhead fans.

The menu is not especially extensive, ranging mostly from burritos to tacos to salads.  Within each of these categories, however, there are multiple options.  One can, for example, order either a crispy or a soft-shell taco.  Not only that, but one can freely elect one's taco to be a Chicken, Pork Carnitas, or Fish Taco.  Similar options exist on the burrito front, and one can either order a regular burrito or, excitingly, an enchilado style burrito.

Tantalizing though the last possibility sounded, I opted for the Nacho Burrito, regular style ($6.39).  I was persuaded to do so by the overhead menu, which helpfully highlighted this dish in nacho cheese-yellow and helpfully added that, in addition to being a burrito, "IT'S SPICY!"

Before turning to the main dish, I indulged in an appetizer: tortilla chips with mild salsa, jalapenos, yellow peppers, and some shredded green stuff that may have been parsley ($0.00).  The toppings were, as the name of the restaurant suggests, fresh, so far as I could tell.  The chips themselves tasted of salt, grease, and stale cardboard, with a faint suggestion of corn.  All in all, this appetizer was worth what I paid for it.

The drink selection at Baja Fresh is exotic, ranging from the pedestrian bottle of water to the more adventurous regular drink ($1.59).  The latter can be anything from iced tea, to Hi-C, to a fountain drink (or any combination thereof).  The unseasoned visitor may think that the two fountain machines offer an identical beverage selection.  Not so.  The one on the left has Mr. Pibb, which I opted for.  It had about the right amount of fizz, a syrupy sweet body, a high fructose corn syrup finish, and an aftertaste of somewhat less than Dr. Pepper's 23 flavors.  Or perhaps somewhat more.  It's not the same thing, at any rate, and I'll fight anyone who says otherwise.

After a few minutes of waiting, listening to the music, the squeaky fans, and the occasional announcement (example: "NUMBER FORTY-FIVE!!!"), my main course arrived.  According to the menu, this soft tortilla is filled with chicken, jack and cheddar cheese (not merely one or the other, mind you), black and pinto beans, Smoky Queso Fundido, jalapenos, crunchy tortilla chips, and Salsa Crema.  In terms of presentation, the burrito was served on wax paper (helpfully reminding the customer that he or she is eating at Baja Fresh), in a tag board basket, on a black plastic tray.  Such a sight, combined with the general ambience, made me feel as though I had been transported to a mall food court, possibly but not necessarily in Tijuana. I added a splash of some hot red salsa to give the ensemble a bit more a festive feel, braced myself, and dug in.

As advertised, the Nacho Burrito was spicy.  I had forgotten there were two types of beans in it, so I was pleasantly surprised to be reminded of this special feature during the first several bites.  I was at least halfway through, however, before I found the cheese, and when I did, I could not tell the difference between the jack, the cheddar, the Smoky Queso Fundido, or the Salsa Crema.  But I'm sure they were all in there.  By the time all was said and done, I was perspiring slightly from all the carbohydrates I had just ingested.  I expect that the memory of Baja Fresh will stick with me for quite a while-at least for the next several hours, anyway.

Out of five doses of Pepto Bismol, I give Baja Fresh two, because you shouldn't take more than two doses at once anyway.